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You are visiting: Home » Project Gallery » Page 57

How to Build a Custom Frame

by Lindsay Ballard on February 29, 2012 2,060 Comments

After I took my crewel work class a few weeks ago, I forced myself to close my computer and work on finishing the stitching on my sampler pattern.  Each night, I worked on it for about half an hour instead of randomly flipping between Pinterest, Facebook and Twitter.  I’m not a person who relaxes very easily, and I have to say that working on this needlepoint project worked well for me.  I see more hand embroidery in my future – for the sake my own sanity.

Once I completed the project, I realized that the sampler was an odd size.  I wanted to frame and hang it in my powder bath for the finishing touch to that room, but I was going to have to get creative on finding a frame.  I decided to just build my own with some wooden trim from The Home Depot.  I made a few mistakes along the way, but I am ultimately happy with the way it turned out.

I put together a tutorial of the process so that you could easily build your own custom frame, too.  Although I do use a compound miter saw, power tools aren’t necessary.  I will explain below.

How to Create a Custom Sized Frame

1.  Measure your piece and decide the inner dimensions of your frame.  Purchase trim from the home improvement store in that size, making sure you buy extra length in case you make any mistakes.  Trust me, and save yourself the trouble of having to go back a second time to buy more.

The trim I selected was pine panel casing, and it ran $1.16/foot.  I chose this trim because it had a lip on the back.  When I put my picture frame together, I wanted it to have a place for the glass or framed piece to sit into like a frame you buy from the store has.  I hope that makes sense.

2.  Using my compound miter saw, I cut out four lengths of trim with 45 degree angles on each end.  The length of the shorter side of each piece is equal to the dimension I wanted for each side of the interior of the finished frame.  Obviously, the outer edge of each length is longer since the ends are cut to 45 degrees.

Because the 45 degree angle isn’t a compound angle (one cut at an angle on both the horizontal and vertical planes – I know, I just got super geeky), you can use a miter box and hand saw to make these cuts.

3.  With blue painter’s tape or masking tape, put together three of your corners by wrapping the tape over the corners.  Use two pieces in case one breaks (again, trust me) and pull the tape tight.  You will want to make sure your inside and outside corners meet up correctly before you tape it.

Why just three corners?  Well, I want you to be able to open the frame like so.

4.  With the corners open, squirt some wood glue into each of the three corners and wrap more blue tape or masking tape around them to hold into place.  Work one corner at a time, and make sure you wipe off any excess glue with a paper towel before taping.

Once your three corners are secure, your fourth corner should (hopefully) match up.  Slide it apart, add the glue, and tape it both over the corner and around like you did the other three.

If your corner doesn’t meet up exactly perfect, don’t worry too much.  We’ll fix that in a future step.

Lay the frame flat and allow the glue to dry.  The label on the bottle I used said to allow 30 minutes dry time, but each brand is different.

5.  Once the glue was dry, I removed the tape and lightly tapped some wood joiners onto the corners on the back of the frame.  This will give the frame some added stability.

In hind sight, I wish I would have used a different type of joiner.  As you can see in the above photo, these joiners overhang the corner lip a bit, so it made it hard to fit my piece inside the frame without a lot of trimming.  If I were to do it again, I would have used a corrugated fastener, which is hammered into the frame in the same was as the wood joiners.

6.  Next, I flipped my frame over and filled in the gaps at the joints with wood filler.  Some gaps were larger than others.  I applied the wood filler with my finger, and then lightly sanded it (I used 220-grit sand paper) when it was dry.

If I were a carpenter, maybe I wouldn’t have had any gaps in my joints.  But, I’m not, so I did.  No worries!

7.  I then painted and glazed the frames.  I was working on two frames, so I spray painted one a shade of red and the other a shade of golden yellow.

8.  Once the paint was dry, I cut a piece of foam core to fit inside the frames.  I covered the foam core with fabric (a printed piece in one and then my crewel work piece in the other) and secured the fabric to the back of the foam core with clear packing tape.  Yep, I was that fancy.

If you are going to be putting glass and photos in your frame, you would do that instead of foam core.  You can either cut the glass yourself or have a custom piece cut at a local shop.  Like any other frame, put in your glass, then your photo, and then add cardboard to the back until it is level with the back of the frame.

9.  After inserting the foam core into the frame, I added more clear tape around the edges to secure it inside the frame.  Again, super fancy.

10.  In order to hide my shame fanciness, I ran a heavy-duty glue stick over the back and glued a piece of kraft paper to the frame.  I trimmed the edges with an X-Acto knife.

I also nailed a sawtooth picture hanger onto the back.  You can find these hangers just about anywhere – even the grocery store.

11.  Because I was hanging two frames on the wall, I used two nails.  I put a nail in the wall and hung the larger frame directly to the wall.  Then, I put another nail through the fabric and foam core of the larger frame and hung the smaller frame onto it.

The result is an awesome, layered piece of artwork in custom frames!

Can we take a minute to revel in the fact that I found that backing fabric in a perfectly complimentary fabric to the stencil on my wall?  I couldn’t even believe it when I ran into it at JoAnn.  I was looking for a more subtle print, but when I saw this navy and turquoise print, I decided that it was meant to be.

Have you ever needed to create your own custom frame?  What did you do?

P.S.  I am so honored to have been nominated for an Apartment Therapy Homie Award for the Best Home Design blog.  Craziness!  In case you don’t know, Apartment Therapy is like the best and biggest design blog out there.

I obviously know I won’t win when I’m up against the likes of some of the heaviest hitters in the blog world, but wouldn’t a Top 20 finish be neat?  I’d love for your vote!  All you have to do is visit the site and log in to AT to vote.  If you don’t already have a log in name, you can just log in with your Facebook or Twitter account.  You’ll have to scroll to find my blog name (but with every vote, it moves closer to the top).  Thank you in advance for your support!  The voting is open through March 2nd, and you can vote for as many of your favorite blogs as you would like.

How to Replace a Ceiling Fan {Part I}

by Lindsay Ballard on February 20, 2012 2,246 Comments

Last summer, we chatted about the fact that most of us need ceiling fans in our bedrooms, regardless of the fact that we rarely see them in the bedrooms featured in our favorite magazines.  I presented you with my ceiling fan dilemma – a dark bladed fan on my newly white ceiling – and you guys offered all sorts of solutions, from replacing the fan with a white one to painting the blades.

So in July, I began my search for the “perfect” ceiling fan for the bedroom.  I didn’t find it until December, and it was on back order.  I was honestly getting ready to cancel the order and find another fan (this one was a great style and an even better price), when lo and behold I recently received an email saying it had been shipped.  Hooray!

The fan arrived last week, and I spent some of Sunday replacing the old fan with the new fan.  It is an easy task once you know what to do, so I thought I would put together a picture-heavy tutorial for you in case you want to tackle the project yourself.  I’m going to split the tutorial into two parts:  1) Removing the old fan and 2) Installing the new fan.  Please remember that every ceiling fan is built a little bit differently, so refer to your fan’s instruction manual, if needed.

How to Remove a Ceiling Fan

1.  Turn off the electricity to the fan at your breaker box.  You will likely find your box in your garage, a closet or your utility room.  All you need to do is flip the breaker (the switch) that powers your fan.  If you don’t know which is the right breaker, turn the fan on and flip breakers on and off until the fan stops spinning.

2.  Begin by unscrewing the finial (mine’s a ball) on the bottom of your light kit or cover plate if you don’t have a light kit. Mine had a little decorative shroud over a threaded rod; yours may be a little different.

3.  With a screwdriver, unscrew the three screws around the sides of the base below the fan blades.

4.  With the three screws removed, you can now remove the light kit electrical portion from the fan.  The shroud will slip off and you will need to disconnect the wires from the light kit to the fan.  Mine were crimped wires that plugged into each other.  Yours may have wire nuts that will need to be twisted off.

5.  With the light kit/light kit cover removed, you will see another set of three screws that need to be addressed.  One screw needs to be completely removed and the other two just need to be loosened.

You will be able to tell by looking which two only need to be loosened, because you will simply just twist the component to remove it from the screws.

6.  Next, you will remove the fan blades.  There are two screws that attach each blade arm to the fan base.  Remove them in a star pattern to keep your fan as balanced as possible.

7.  Now that the blades are removed, you can reach the ring on the fan that touches the ceiling.  It hides some more screws you need to remove, so take it off by twisting and pulling down.

8.  There will be three screws near the top of the fan that connect it to the plate or bracket that holds it on the ceiling.  Carefully unscrew those screws.

9.  Now that those screws are removed, you can twist and pull the fan base off of the ceiling.  Before you can put it down, you will need to disconnect the wires between the ceiling and the fan.  As you can see, mine were attached with wire nuts that twist off.

This particular fan has a very heavy motor, so this is definitely my least favorite part of the removal!  Not all fans are this heavy.

10.  The plate and remote control receiver (if your fan has one) will be left on the ceiling.  There are two screws that attach it to the ceiling box, so remove those two screws.  Pull off the plate and remove it from the wires.

11.  You will be left with a hole in your ceiling with exposed wiring.  If you aren’t going to immediately install a new fan or light source, go ahead and cap off each of the wires with a wire nut.  You can see in this photo that I have one more wire nut that I need to place on the white wire.

Why are the wire nuts different colors?  They are simply color-coded that way by size.  The blue nuts are tiny (not pictured), the orange nuts are small, the yellow nuts are medium, and the red nuts (not pictured) are large.  You choose a wire nut based upon wire gauges and how many wires you are twisting together.

Congratulations!  You just removed your ceiling fan!  In Part II, I will show you how to install your new fan and show off the fan that I waited all of those months to receive.

Have you ever removed a ceiling fan yourself?  Or, does it seem like something that makes you nervous?

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About Makely

Lindsay Ballard is a former college mascot turned political geek turned roller derby playing, DIY fanatic.

Lindsay chronicles her projects, design ideas, and lifestyle tips here at Makely, where she shares tutorials and inspiration. Her DIY designs are bold and graphic, while her spirit is fun and full of color.


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